How I Care for My Houseplants: The Basics
Introduction
My approach to caring for plants has evolved a lot over the years—from the kinds of plants I prefer to grow to the way I care for them. One of the biggest things I’ve learned along the way is that there is no one-size-fits-all approach to plant care. What works well for one person may not work for another, depending on the plant, the environment, and even your lifestyle.
Whenever I bring home a new plant, I like to start by learning a little about it: what kind of plant it is, where it comes from, and what its natural growing conditions are like. While we can’t recreate those conditions perfectly in our homes, they provide useful clues about what a plant needs to thrive.
It’s also important to remember that many of the plants we bring home have been grown in greenhouse environments optimized for plant growth. Moving from those conditions into our homes is a significant change, and some adjustment should be expected while a plant acclimates to its new environment.
Over the years, I’ve developed an approach that works well for the plants I grow and the conditions in my own home. It’s been shaped by plenty of observation and experimentation—and both successes and failures. In this post, I’ll share some of the practices I rely on most and what I’ve learned along the way.
Light
Light is one of the most important factors in successfully growing plants. It provides the energy plants need for photosynthesis, and without adequate light, a plant will struggle to thrive.
Plant labels typically provide guidance using terms like “bright indirect light” or “low light.” I find that this terminology can be particularly confusing for newer plant parents because the descriptions are vague and can be interpreted very differently from one home to another. Instead of relying exclusively on a label, I prefer to evaluate the light available in my own home and place plants accordingly.
Living in a Philadelphia rowhouse, natural light can be somewhat limited, so understanding how sunlight moves through the available windows is especially important. I consider which direction a window faces, how long it receives light, the intensity of that light, and how all of those factors change throughout the year.
The front of my house faces north, while the back faces south, and I don't have a huge number of windows—so good window space is a bit of a commodity. Some of my strap-leaf Anthuriums live in the front windows, where they seem to appreciate the gentler light along with some direct sun as the day winds down. In my south-facing back windows, I keep light-loving cacti and some Hoya that can tolerate the stronger direct sunlight they receive throughout the morning and into the early afternoon.
Because my window space is limited, the vast majority of my collection is grown under grow lights. I typically keep them on a 12-hour on, 12-hour off cycle and adjust the distance between the light and the plant based on how much light that particular plant can tolerate. My velvet Anthuriums, for example, tend to prefer less intense light and are kept farther from the lights. Some of my Hoya—particularly those capable of developing sun stress coloration—can tolerate, and often appreciate, being closer to the light.
Regardless of the plant, I make sure the leaves aren't physically touching the grow lights, as direct contact can cause burning. From there, observation is key. I watch how each plant responds rather than assuming its initial placement will be perfect. Is it stretching toward the light or developing elongated growth, known as etiolation? Is it leaning or orienting its leaves away from the light? Changes in growth and leaf position can provide useful clues about whether a plant is happy with the amount and intensity of light it's receiving.
Lighting is a much larger topic than I could cover in a single section—and probably deserves a From the Rowhouse series of its own. For now, my general approach is simple: understand the light you have, learn what your plants prefer, and pay attention to how they respond.
Watering
Watering is another essential part of plant care—and one that can be surprisingly easy to overcomplicate. One of the most important things I’ve learned is that watering on a fixed schedule generally doesn’t make sense. How quickly a plant uses water depends on a combination of factors, including the substrate and how much moisture it retains, the size of the pot and root system, the type of plant, available light, temperature, and even the time of year.
Instead of thinking, “water every seven days,” my rule of thumb is “check the plant every seven days.” The actual interval will vary depending on the plant and its growing conditions, but the important distinction is that checking the plant doesn't automatically mean watering it.
I personally prefer growing many of my plants in clear pots because they allow me to see both the substrate and the root system. Being able to observe how much moisture remains in the pot—and how the roots are developing—gives me additional information when deciding whether it's time to water.
The weight of the pot is another useful indicator. As you become familiar with a plant, the difference between a freshly watered pot and one that's beginning to dry can be surprisingly noticeable. You can also check the substrate directly with a finger or wooden chopstick to get a better sense of how much moisture remains below the surface.
Ultimately, I don't rely on any single method. I look at the plant, the substrate, the roots, and the conditions it's growing in. A plant receiving stronger light may use water more quickly, while one growing in lower light may take considerably longer to dry. The goal isn't to follow a rigid watering schedule, but to learn how to recognize when a particular plant actually needs water.
Substrate
When it comes to substrates, the possibilities are nearly endless. This is another topic that could easily become a blog—or an entire series—of its own. For now, the most important thing to know about my approach is that I don't necessarily use the same substrate for everything.
Over the years, I've experimented with a variety of substrates and combinations for different types of plants. Only recently do I feel like I've landed on a few mixes that have become my personal “holy grails.” Even then, I'm always willing to adjust based on the plant and how it responds.
Regardless of the exact ingredients, there are a few key things I consider when putting together a substrate: water retention, aeration, drainage, and structure. A good mix needs to hold enough moisture for the plant to access while still allowing air around the roots and excess water to drain freely. It also needs enough structure to support the root system without compacting too much over time.
The balance between those characteristics will look different depending on what I'm growing. A plant that prefers to stay more consistently moist may benefit from a mix with greater water retention, while a plant that's more sensitive to staying wet may do better in something much airier and faster draining. My own watering habits and growing environment also factor into that decision.
Ultimately, I think of substrate less as a fixed recipe and more as another part of the plant's overall growing environment. The goal is to find a balance between what the plant needs and what works with the way you care for it.
My Current Substrate Mixes
These are the mixes I'm currently using most often in my own collection. They're not meant to be universal recipes—different growing environments and care routines may call for adjustments—but they've become reliable starting points for the way I grow.
Basic Chunky Mix
- 3 parts coco chips
- 2 parts large perlite or pumice
- 1 part coco coir
This is my versatile, chunky mix when I want a good balance of moisture retention and aeration without the substrate staying overly dense.
Hoya Mix
- 2 parts tree fern fiber
- 1 part pon
- 1 part monto clay
For Hoya, I prefer a particularly airy, well-draining mix that still provides some moisture retention around the roots.
Aroid Mix
- 2 parts tree fern fiber
- 1 part large lava rock
- 1 part large pumice
This creates a very open, well-aerated substrate with plenty of space around the roots while still allowing the tree fern fiber to retain some moisture.
Cactus & Succulent Mix
- 2 parts gritty mix
- 1 part coco coir
For cacti and succulents, I lean heavily toward drainage while incorporating some coco coir for moisture retention.
These mixes have evolved through plenty of trial and error, and they'll probably continue to change as I experiment. That's part of what I enjoy about growing plants: there's always something to observe, adjust, and learn.
Pots
As I mentioned in the watering section, I prefer to use clear nursery pots whenever possible so I can easily observe both the substrate and the root system. Depending on the plant's needs, I may also use nursery pots with additional aeration holes to increase airflow around the roots. As an added bonus, keeping plants in nursery pots makes it easy to use decorative cache pots without sacrificing the functionality I want from the growing pot itself.
Another important consideration is pot size. A pot that's too small can cause a plant to become rootbound more quickly and may require more frequent watering. On the other hand, a pot that's too large can hold more moisture than a smaller root system is able to use, causing the substrate to remain wet for too long.
Pot size can be a true Goldilocks problem.
Because every plant and root system is a little different, I try to consider how the particular plant grows rather than choosing a pot based solely on the size of its foliage. Some plants prefer a relatively snug pot, while others benefit from having a little more room for their roots to grow.
As a general rule, I usually choose a pot about 1–2 inches larger in diameter than the plant's existing root ball when it's time to size up. This provides some room for continued root growth without surrounding the plant with an excessive amount of substrate.
Like so many aspects of plant care, the pot can't really be considered in isolation. Pot size, substrate, root system, and watering all influence one another. Finding the right combination is much more useful than simply choosing a pot because the plant looks like it should fit.
Humidity & Temperature
I try not to stress too much about humidity and temperature. I've had success growing a wide variety of tropical plants in the ambient conditions of my home, and I've found that many plants can adapt quite well to typical household conditions when their other needs are being met.
In my house, humidity generally stays around 40–50% during the spring and summer and drops to around 30–40% during the fall and winter. Indoor temperatures remain relatively stable throughout the year, typically between 65–70°F. We have central air conditioning and forced-air heat, so while the temperature stays fairly consistent, there are natural fluctuations in humidity throughout the year. I keep small hygrometers in different areas of the house to monitor these conditions and get a better idea of the environment my plants are actually experiencing.
The majority of my plants grow under these ambient conditions, but I do create pockets of higher humidity when a plant benefits from it. Some of my more sensitive Anthuriums and Alocasias, for example, are grown in cabinets where I can maintain a more controlled environment. I also use humidifiers in certain areas when needed, particularly as indoor humidity drops during the colder months.
Another simple strategy I use is grouping plants together. This can help create a slightly more humid microclimate immediately around the plants without trying to raise the humidity of an entire room.
For me, the goal isn't to recreate greenhouse conditions throughout my house. It's to understand the conditions I already have, recognize which plants are comfortable in them, and provide a little extra support for the plants that need it. As with light and watering, monitoring how the plant responds is ultimately more useful than chasing a specific number.
Fertilizer
When it comes to fertilizer, I follow the “weakly, weekly” approach—feeding my plants consistently with a relatively dilute fertilizer solution rather than giving them a stronger dose less frequently.
Because many of my plants are grown in substrates that provide little in the way of nutrients themselves, I prefer to make sure they're receiving nutrients consistently through watering. My fertilizer of choice is Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro, a general-purpose fertilizer that I've found works well across a wide variety of the plants I grow. I typically follow the maintenance rate of ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon of water.
In addition to fertilizer, my regular watering mix includes a silica supplement, water conditioner, SNS 209 as part of my pest-management routine, and BTi for fungus gnat control.This has become my standard watering routine, although it has evolved over time as I've experimented with what works best for my collection.
I also use the same fertilizer for propagations and seedlings once they've developed established root systems. So far, I haven't found much reason to complicate my routine or use different fertilizers for different groups of plants. Keeping things consistent has worked well for me.
One thing I do pay attention to is mineral buildup, particularly with plants grown in self-watering setups. Because fertilizer solution can remain in the reservoir and substrate, I periodically flush these plants thoroughly with plain water to help remove accumulated fertilizer salts.
As with the rest of my care routine, I've found that consistency works better for me than making things overly complicated. A relatively dilute, regular feeding routine keeps my plants supplied with nutrients while remaining simple enough to maintain across a large collection.
Pests & Routine Inspection
And now for the dreaded pests. Unfortunately, when you grow plants, they come with the territory. Even experienced growers will encounter them from time to time. The goal isn't necessarily to maintain a collection that never sees a pest, but to catch problems early and prevent a few unwanted visitors from becoming a full-blown infestation.
Regular inspection is one of the most useful tools for doing that. Whenever I bring home a new plant, I thoroughly inspect it for visible pests, paying particular attention to the tops and undersides of leaves, along stems, around new growth, and in the small crevices where pests like to hide. I also recommend isolating new plants from the rest of your collection for a period of time, since pests or their eggs may be present even when you can't immediately see them.
The pest itself isn't always the first thing you'll notice. Visible leaf damage can be a sign of either an active or previous infestation, and changes in the plant can provide additional clues. Stunted or distorted new growth, damaged emerging leaves, discoloration, webbing, or other unusual changes are all reasons to take a closer look.
For particularly small pests, I like to use a handheld microscope. It's a simple tool that makes it much easier to inspect leaves and identify pests that can be difficult to see clearly with the naked eye.
In my own collection, I prefer to start with more targeted methods and limit unnecessary use of conventional chemical pesticides. I use a combination of beneficial insects and other pest-control products depending on what I'm dealing with. A s part of my regular pest-management routine, I also add SNS 209 to my water, which is a rosemary-based systemic product intended to help plants become less appealing to certain feeding pests. For the ever-present fungus gnat, I also use BTi in my watering routine to help control the larvae living in the substrate.
Most importantly, I try to make pest inspection part of my normal plant-care routine rather than something I only think about once there's an obvious problem. Catching an infestation early generally makes it much easier to manage.
There's far more to say about houseplant pests than I can cover here, so I'll save the details—how I identify the most common pests, what signs I look for, and how I approach treating each one—for a future From the Rowhouse post.
Putting It All Together
If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that no part of plant care exists in isolation. Light, water, substrate, roots, temperature, humidity, and even the pot itself all interact. Change one variable, and you may find that something else needs to change along with it.
A plant receiving brighter light may use water more quickly. A chunky, well-aerated substrate may dry faster than a denser mix. A larger pot may hold moisture longer than a smaller one. Changes in temperature, humidity, or even the season can affect how quickly a plant uses water and grows.
This is why I’ve moved away from thinking about plant care as a set of rules to memorize. A care label can give you a starting point, but it can’t account for the light in your home, the substrate you use, how you water, or the conditions your plant has adapted to.
Instead, I’ve learned to observe the plant in front of me. How quickly is the substrate drying? What does the new growth look like? How are the roots developing? Is the plant reaching toward the light or turning away from it? Those observations often tell me far more than a predetermined care schedule ever could.
My own approach to plant care has changed many times over the years, and I expect it will continue to change as I grow different plants, try new things, and learn from what works—and what doesn’t. That experimentation is part of what keeps growing plants interesting to me.
So if there’s one piece of advice I’d leave you with, it’s this: learn the basics, but pay attention to your plants. Give yourself permission to adjust, experiment, and figure out what works in your own growing environment.
After all, there’s rarely just one right way to grow a plant.